With
bags of potential, the 100E range make for great modified classics.
1957 Ford Anglia 100E
Long
before the 105E version, there was a procession of Anglias including one in the
100E range. Sadly, despite its two-door configuration it wasn’t powered by anything
other than a side valve, which can be tuned but the returns aren’t that great.
By contrast, the later Prefect 107E came with Kent power plus a recessed
bulkhead and enlarged floor to house the drivetrain. But this was only
available as a four-dooralthough replicating that tin-wear is a straightforward
mod that’s almost de rigueur in the search for a more rewarding power-plant.
The
100E range was made in huge numbers, and despite rising prices for a good base,
they’re still the affordable Ford. Plenty of specialist support is out there, with
a ton of tried and tested modification recipes. All you have to do is decide
which route you take.Retaining the standard struts means drum brakes. Swapping
to Classic struts will give you solid discs only, although the biggest are the
non-vented late Capri range and M16s, you’ll need a 0.75-inch master cylinder with
these though.
Vacuum powered windshield wipers can be
slowed to almost a stop when driving uphill, which is always entertaining if
you’re not driving
The
swap to rack and pinion though really opens the net wide — what’s available for
an Escort will now fit. And the catalogue of what’s available is well documented:
kits from Willwood/Rally Design, Hi-Spec, and Capri Sport; the size of which
depends on wheel size.
At
the rear you can retain English axle drums, uprate and adapt to Capri 9 inch Atlas
drums, or swap in an OFAS disc brake kit, depending on how flash you want to
get. With all of the above you’ll need to fit the appropriate master cylinder,
while braided hoses replacing rubber are a good idea, too.
Suspension
The
range is afflicted with 5.5 inch PCD drum brake struts — therefore the wheel
choice is limited. But there’s stuff you can do — Old Ford Auto Services (OFAS)
have a disc brake kit in the pipeline, while they’ve successfully converted the
standard struts to 2.25-inch ID springs using an abutment kit, giving
adjustment and a huge range of springs. They also have the full range of poly
bushes plus an anti-roll bar kit that doubles up the original. Next on the
traditional route is to swap to Classic struts and TCAs, which gives disc brakes
and retains the steering box, but you’ll have to exchange the top mounts to
100E pattern too. Downside — a limited brakes range, plus the hardware’s
scarce. The common route’s to swap the lot to Escort struts with rack-and-pinion
steering and a wider brake range. The old method was adapting the relevant cross
member, but kits are available from OFAS and Alachithat do the lot. Both use
their own TCAs and vary in design. The back features narrow leaf springs
meaning special lowering blocks are needed — again available from both sources,
while the dampers con be converted to adjustable using a kit.
Engine
Unless
you’re into traditionally-tuned engines, there’s not many that will touch the
side valve unit — compression’s really low at around 6:1 although there were
plenty of tuning companies specializing in raising it. Some of these parts are now
reproduced, the most famous, Aquaplane producing an alloy head that will raise
CR to 8:1, plus you can buy inlet manifolds for twin SU carbs.
Tuning
side valves is a dark art these days, but there are still specialists who will
do this for you.
