The Avants were gradually filtered into
production from July 2001, and were available with 1.8t, 2.0, 2.0 FSI, 2.4, and
3.0 petrol engines, and the same diesel options as the saloon.
After only four years, the B6 was replaced
by the B7. This new model with the now-familiar Audi ‘beard’ grille was in fact
a clever revamp of the B6. Technical improvements included revised steering
geometry, and the TFSI fuel injection and engine management system – but more
on that another time. This B7 itself became the SEATEXEO in 2008, and this
model has only just gone out of production, replaced by the new Toledo.
Audi
B6 A4 out look
As a used car, the B6 model A4 makes as
much sense as it did when new. Starting with the petrol engines, the
four-cylinder units are all distant relatives of the EA827 unit that powered
those first Audi 80s in 1972, as are the 1.9 diesels. The 1.6 with 100 PS is no
fireball and few were sold. There’s nothing wrong with them, however, and a
good one is a decent car to drive. 1.8tor 2.0? There’s no doubt that the
1.8tgoes very well, with a nice bit of turbo shove. The 136 PS 2.0 engine is a
bit lost, but again don’t dismiss a nice clean one. The 2.0 FSI with 150 PS
goes well and returns very creditable economy. Like the others, it is known for
coil pack problems, but these days new coil packs are so cheap to buy and easy
to fit that it’s almost worth keeping a spare in the glove box.
2004
Audi A4 Engine
These engines can all suffer from neglected
oil changes and many can sound quite harsh. the problem is the oil pick-up
strainer becoming clogged with old oil residue and the only way to prevent this
is to change the oil regularly, using semi or fully synthetic oil and changing
it every 10,000 miles or so. Dropping the sump to clean out both the sump and
the strainer is probably worth doing, but avoid engine flush as this can
dislodge crud that can cause the oil pressure valve in the pump to stick.
These engines all have cam belts that
should be replaced at the correct intervals along with the tensioner rollers
and the water pump. Contitech (part of Continental tyres) do excellent quality
belt kits but, on engines with water pumps that are part of the cam belt
tension, we would use a genuine Audi water pump.
As with the previous A4, cam belt changes
require the front of the car to be pulled forward on the special screw-in studs
that allow the complete front panel with lamps to be drawn forward. A cam belt
change on a V6 isn’t vastly more expensive, but you’re still looking at around $588.49
with parts.
2004
Audi A4 On Road
The PD diesels are great engines and don’t
suffer the oil pump problems of the later 2.0 TDI. Most, however, have now
covered a lot of miles and you need to weigh up the potential costs as the 10-12
mpg difference between a 1.9 TDI and a 2.0 FSI can be quickly absorbed by an
injector replacement or turbo failure. If anything, diesels need more care than
petrols and, and you need to make sure that you do not just put any oil in a PD
diesel – it needs the correct grade. Volkswagen sells Quantum Long Life III 507.00,
and halfords also sell APD specific oil.
Coolant leaks on the 1.8twill probably be
the hose to cylinder head flange on the back of the head – you will need to
replace the flange, which is not a pleasant job.
