Mitsubishi 4G63 issues
Problem
I own a '98 Eclipse GS-T Spyder with idling
problems. First it was idling high when I got the car running decent. I would
play with the A’pexi Super AFC Neo and get it to idle at 1,200 to 1,500 rpm,
just good enough to drive. The engine was outfitted with a set of Crower 272
camshafts so I didn’t want it idling really low but I still couldn’t get it to
idle right. Many test runs with the AFC yielded not much better results. But I
am getting this tuning stuff down, which is a definite money saver! One night
the car suddenly died out on me and didn’t want to start so I had to tow it
home. The next day, I looked over everything, and it started up but idled
around 500-600 rpm. I also heard a weird misfire, but once going down the road
there isn’t a power loss. The firing sounds are coming from under the valve
cover every once in a while. I double-checked to confirm that the ignition
firing sequence is correct while also installing a new set of Iridium spark
plugs and Taylor 8mm plug wires. The car has a GM blow-through MAF translator
that seems to be working. The PowerDex is telling me 16.00 after the misfire
and then the car will stall and not pull itself out of a hole when it does. Initially,
the engine was experiencing cooling problems, but I fixed it and put in a new
temperature sensor that seemed to help the fuel trim some. My brother said he
had some loose solderings in his ’95 E-prom ECU. Will the ’95 E-prom work with
the ’96-99 cam knock crank ECT sensors just fine? If all else fails I would
want to swap to a boost-friendly E-prom. Thanks.
'98
Eclipse GS-T Spyder
How to fix
Diagnosing a car online is never easy. Try
calling a doctor and telling him that sometimes you have coughing fits. He
won’t be able to tell you what's wrong over the phone or by email either.
If you did not make any mechanical changes
between the times of high and low idle, then I suspect you may have a
mechanical issue. An engine will usually idle high with a vacuum leak. Another
cause could be a bad idle speed motor, air bypass screw too far out, bad
throttle position sensor, or the throttle stop screw on the throttle body
adjusted incorrectly. Any of these issues can also cause the ECU to freak out
and go into a limp home mode that can cause the engine to not start.
A’pexi
Super AFC Neo
I’m assuming you have a check-engine light
so you can also plug in an OBD2 scanner to see what codes it reads. If you
haven’t thought of that, I’m not so sure you should be trying to diagnose this
problem yourself. Saving money is one thing, but trying to diagnose the issue
without knowing how things work isn’t doing you much good either. At the very
least, get yourself a factory service manual and follow it step by step.
It sounds like you have several items that
were also wired in to the engine harness such as the MAF translator and AFC.
You should also check the wiring on these items. Your setup sounds like its
’98. Technology has allowed the consumer to step up to stand-alone ECUs that
can entirely control an engine within a single control unit affordably. You
should probably suck it up and get yourself an affordable standalone ECU such
as a Haltech or AEM. Using signal translators and cheaters is a thing of the
past. You wouldn't want to go back to a 28.8 K modem and dial-up Internet
access, would you?
Where to start?
Problem
I own a 12 Mazda2, and have been looking to
upgrade it with aftermarket parts to make the car more fun to drive. I went to
a few automotive stores here in Oahu to attempt to see what they suggested but
the advice I was given was: “There are no parts like that for your car, either
it hasn’t been developed or it’s too new.” Or I get: “Why would you want to mod
that car." In my defense, the car is lightweight, and I want to be one of
the first to do so. Do you have any tips on a good starting point to look for
parts or advice on where to begin?
How to fix
Have you heard of a website called Google?
In about 20 seconds, I found headers, intakes, exhausts, and suspension
upgrades. No kidding. It took me 20 seconds. Racing Beat appears to have a
small product line for the Mazda2.1 recommend you look them up. RB has been
around forever and they have always made quality parts. In case you don’t know
how to use Google, here’s RB’s web address: www.racinabeat.com. You’re welcome.
Suspension overkill?
Problem
I own a ’88 CRX that I am modifying to
become my street/track monster but cannot accomplish this without the proper
suspension setup. Although my question may vary from FF to FR setups and many
other combos, I would like to find out if there is such a thing as too stiff of
a suspension. I am contemplating purchasing a set of Skunk2 Pro S coilovers
for a nice, firm feel with 18kg front, but I am questioning the rear spring
rate. I was thinking of 12kg rears. I am an amateur in the suspension world,
but always had a knack for wanting to learn about different setups. Forums are
often no help so I am resorting to asking you guys.
’88
CRX
How to fix
Yes, there is such a thing as too stiff. A
suspension that is too stiff will cause the tires to lose contact with the road
surface or greatly reduce necessary forces on the tires required for traction.
Naturally this will result in a loss of grip and limit the car’s road- holding
ability.
Springs cannot just be randomly combined
with any damper. The damper’s valving and/or damping adjustment needs to be
able to keep up with the spring’s rate or the damper will quickly be destroyed.
I'd recommend you ask Skunk2 about installing springs that are nearly double
the original rates of the included springs.
Skunk2
Pro S
Skunk2 has developed and tested their
suspension kit so I would probably try the coilovers as designed first as long
as you’re using the suspension for its intended purpose. Building a
street/track monster doesn’t happen overnight either. Installing random
coilovers with 18 and 12kg springs isn't going to turn you into Michael
Schumacher overnight either. Starting off with a proven coilover kit will make
it easier to learn how to drive the car too. Just tike Tiger Woods would kick
my ass at golf with a set of $69 Kmart clubs, Schumacher will kick your ass in
a bone-stock Civic at any track. It’s not always 100 percent about the parts so
remember to concentrate on improving your driving skills too.
